Tony Tan's Birthday Message for Stephanie

Stephanie Alexander – a tribute/accolade/homage/encomium

When I was asked to write about Stephanie Alexander, one thing crossed my mind; how could I possibly write anything new about Stephanie that has not been written already? But the more I think about it, I realise I have something to contribute in a rather personal and professional way.

My first professional experience with Stephanie was when I was asked to be translator for two Hong Kong Chinese chefs who came to cook at her Hawthorn restaurant in the 1980s. Chefs Hui and Li were there to collaborate with Stephanie and the Hong Kong Festival.

Prior to this, I’d heard about Stephanie’s legendary eye for detail. So as I navigated my task between translating and assisting the chefs with slicing and portioning green beans, imagine my horror when Stephanie reprimanded me for not doing it properly. And she was right. Once I overcame the embarrassment, I realised that I have so much to learn from her. That was the beginning of a long and enduring friendship.

Many of us who know Stephanie recognise her strength of character and her passionate quest for understanding food culture. One of finest instances which demonstrate Stephanie’s resourcefulness and her no-nonsense approach happened when she joined me on my food tour to Malaysia.

I had organised with my sister and my brother-in-law to cook my family’s favourite dishes for dinner at our home in Kuantan. When we arrived that afternoon, there was no one there to greet us but all the ingredients were there. After checking the group into our hotel, I rang my brother-in-law who informed me my sister was diagnosed with terminal cancer that very day. Sad, emotional and panic-stricken with no time to organise anything else, I took over the cooking. When Stephanie arrived and realised my predicament she rolled up her sleeves and said ‘loaves and fishes!’ and dived in to help. That’s the Stephanie I know – practical and compassionate. Empathy is such a beautiful thing.

Over the years, Stephanie has invited me to be guest chef at Stephanie’s restaurant and at Richmond Café & Larder. While these occasions demonstrate her faith in my cooking ability, I can’t help but feel that I still have so much to learn from her; her impeccable taste from menu planning to execution is, in my opinion, beyond par. It’s called vision and experience.

When I was commissioned to write my cookbook, Stephanie travelled with me to Hong Kong. On our first day at Mongkok market, out popped her legendary notebook – she was detailing everything we saw, taste and ate. I was stunned because I’d heard of her note-taking prowess. That very act has motivated me to be more diligent and insightful with what I cook, think and write about food.

Thank you, Stephanie, for your unwavering support. You have been a fabulous mentor not only for me but for so many people I know in the food world. Your tireless commitment to motivating children through the SAKGF to appreciate the importance of food is truly commendable. I know you are a titan in Australia but I am so lucky to count you as my friend. Happy birthday and thank you for the years of encouragement and belly-aching laughter.