Damien Pignolet's Birthday Message for Stephanie

In the late 1970s Melbourne’s restaurant scene was exploding with influences from France and in particular La Nouvelle Cuisine, but in our neighbourhood there was a restaurant where real food was being served without fads, seriously genuine and superbly executed under the baton of Stephanie Alexander and her devoted team. I became a regular and I’m proud to say we became very close friends. 

Stephanie’s embraced French Provincial and Italian cooking, often rustic as well as what we might call classic French. I recall perfectly cooked slices of calves liver, deglazed with a vinegar and served with a sauté of potatoes with garlic and parsley. One of the greatest achievements was a fritto misto of various ingredients, each employing the appropriate protective coating for their deep or shallow frying methods. However, the entrée to question the diner’s palate was radis au beurre; radishes, cold butter and salt. I suspect few may have ordered this humble yet delicious French starter.

As the director of The Culinary Arts Club I decided our first magazine should feature Stephanie’s restaurant. I recall her saying ‘This is hardest thing I’ve ever done.’ And as a chef I totally understood. My first wife, Josephine, a fabulous cook, spent a week in Stephanie’s kitchen which she maintained was a revelation. They became close friends as well and they travelled to France dining in great restaurants and revelling in the beauty of Paris.

My friendship with Stephanie has covered some 42 years and with mutual support and much love, we have travelled the highs and lows of our lives. Her contribution to food in Australia is unparalleled for its generosity, authenticity and her unique style. Be it her restaurant food or anything from her magnificent books we are all privileged to be touched by this incredibly gifted woman.